Stephen Harris’s “off-the-chart-brilliant” gastroboozer – a 10-minute drive into the salt marshes outside Whitstable – is “a total breath of fresh air” (“in more ways than one!”); the “brilliantly prepared dishes are a joy in their simplicity” and served in an “unfussy”, totally “unpretentious” manner.
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Under cover of the wall-to-wall consideration of this week’s Michelin awards, the Observer’s critic also gets a second review, in the news pages. The hook? The supposed significance of the fact that the tyre men have awarded a star to a restaurant that’s not poncey! (Congratulations to Michelin, incidentally, for finally spotting a place to which we’ve given the top rating in Harden’s since our 2006 guide.)
Jay Rayner (28th January 2008)
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