“Worth a journey down a stony track”, this “posh, picturesque pub”, in the Chilterns, makes a “charming find” and has become very well known, thanks to its “professional” staff and its “lovely” cooking (“more gastro than pub”).
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The critic visits a “restaurant – not posh, but not a gastropub either - [which] sprawls across several rooms of what was once an old country pub”. She is pretty much swept away. “Service is charming and the menu breaks every rule in the book. It is massive, with sixteen starters and fourteen main courses. The spicing and influences swoop from continent to coast around the globe, without even a blush. Yet everything works because the kitchen takes care with every dish. Anyone for fun, happy food? … It is a honour and a pleasure to eat here.”