Sir Peter Michael’s California-style country house hotel still divides views; fans proclaim the “slick” combination of Daniel Galmiche’s “sinful” cooking with a “magnificent” New World wine list (“you need two hours just to read it!”); the occasional critic though still finds the whole experience rather “sterile”.
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Matthew Norman's stand-in this week reviews this Michelin star-winning Newbury restaurant, where the wine list “bark[s] at you to sit up straight and pay attention”.