“A country pub specialising in Cornish fish”; it’s a “welcoming”, “lively” and “reliable” sort of place, which all reporters agree is “something of an oasis in a culinary desert”.
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Another review – this time of a “rustic pub room with city prices” – where you can hear the bell tolling even in the opening paragraph. She starts off being conned (for such is the implication) into accepting bread for which there is an unexpected charge – “the first of several moves that make the meal slightly uncomfortable”.