“Gorgeous” Thames views (and a “lovely terrace”) set an “elegant” tone at this “handsome” dining room, near Richmond Bridge; fans say it’s a “perfect all-rounder”, but critics complain that it’s a “formal” sort of place, with “fussy, fussy” food and “unfocused” service.
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A review of a Surrey riverside restaurant, in a Georgian townhouse that's “been modernised in a cautiously contemporary design, lending it the kind of grown up yet cool atmosphere where one might be taken to discuss one's trust fund.” “[C]omplex cooking masterfully executed” is served with “precision and pomp”, with main courses offering “a riot of tastes, with lots of tiny offerings of delicious, diverse flavours.”
Fay Maschler (4th February 2010)
3/5 stars
Ms M begins by pronouncing on the new Michelin guide. “Alain Ducasse… got three stars — but then he would, wouldn’t he? And because the named but absentee chef at Apsleys — A Heinz Beck restaurant — at The Lanesborough hotel attracts three stars in Rome, Apsleys got a star despite the almost universally lukewarm reviews the restaurant received in other publications”.
John Walsh (1st February 2010)
Food 4/5 stars, Ambience 3/5 stars, Service 3/5 stars
A review of a Richmond hotel dining room that’s just acquired its first Michelin star. In the best hotel tradition, the room is “heavily designed in textures that suggest opulence, but threaten suffocation”, but, from the start, “the food lifted the spirits”. Even so, there can be a tendency to over-complication.
Jasper Gerard (4th May 2010)
Fay Maschler (4th February 2010)
John Walsh (1st February 2010)
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