“Bright and unfussy”, Toby Leigh’s bistro is a “pleasant” sort of place, tipped for “interesting” main courses, an “outstanding” cheese board and “great” puddings too – even fans, though, can find standards “inconsistent”.
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Tracey MacLeod (9th November 2009)
Food 4/5 stars, Ambience 3/5 stars, Service 4/5 st
“The once-thriving royal resort of Ramsgate should, in theory, be the perfect destination for a daytrip to the seaside”, says the critic, but “the flood of wealth which washed over south-east England during the last decade has largely by-passed this far easterly corner”. (“As my fellow day-tripper Harry said, taking in the blighted landscape, ‘Suddenly I see the point of Brighton’.”)
Jasper Gerard (6th July 2009)
3/5
The critic detects the “faintest scent of revival” at the dilapidated Kentish port, which he partly puts down to this new restaurant. It is a “dazzling” space where chef Toby Leigh (nephew of Rowley) has created a “sparse but inventive” menu. The meal turns out to be a “fiasco” and service is “hopeless”, but “when food’s prepared with such joy, generosity and talent”, he can’t help but be forgiving.
Terry Durack (18th May 2009)
17/20
“Situated in the old Page & Sons wine warehouse (the P fell off) in a secluded courtyard just off the high street, Age & Sons is a breath of fresh air for Ramsgate”, says the critic. “It is not a pub, a tea-room or a chippy. Nor does it feel like a transplant from the capital, telling locals how things should be done.” “This is a genuine find, a place of integrity, charm and good humour, and [chef] Toby Leigh goes on my list of Britain's exciting new order of rising young talent.”
Zoe Williams (15th December 2008)
8.5/10
“In the back alleys of Ramsgate is an old wine warehouse that in east London would house 75 ad execs and a clan of rats, but here has been turned into a lovely, large, inviting establishment [which exudes] an overriding sense of hospitality”. In fact, the whole place, says the critic, is “brilliant”.