“Bright and unfussy”, Toby Leigh’s bistro is a “pleasant” sort of place, tipped for “interesting” main courses, an “outstanding” cheese board and “great” puddings too – even fans, though, can find standards “inconsistent”.
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Tracey MacLeod (9th November 2009)
Food 4/5 stars, Ambience 3/5 stars, Service 4/5 st
“The once-thriving royal resort of Ramsgate should, in theory, be the perfect destination for a daytrip to the seaside”, says the critic, but “the flood of wealth which washed over south-east England during the last decade has largely by-passed this far easterly corner”. (“As my fellow day-tripper Harry said, taking in the blighted landscape, ‘Suddenly I see the point of Brighton’.”)
Jasper Gerard (6th July 2009)
The critic detects the “faintest scent of revival” at the dilapidated Kentish port, which he partly puts down to this new restaurant. It is a “dazzling” space where chef Toby Leigh (nephew of Rowley) has created a “sparse but inventive” menu. The meal turns out to be a “fiasco” and service is “hopeless”, but “when food’s prepared with such joy, generosity and talent”, he can’t help but be forgiving.
Terry Durack (18th May 2009)
“Situated in the old Page & Sons wine warehouse (the P fell off) in a secluded courtyard just off the high street, Age & Sons is a breath of fresh air for Ramsgate”, says the critic. “It is not a pub, a tea-room or a chippy. Nor does it feel like a transplant from the capital, telling locals how things should be done.” “This is a genuine find, a place of integrity, charm and good humour, and [chef] Toby Leigh goes on my list of Britain's exciting new order of rising young talent.”
Zoe Williams (15th December 2008)
“In the back alleys of Ramsgate is an old wine warehouse that in east London would house 75 ad execs and a clan of rats, but here has been turned into a lovely, large, inviting establishment [which exudes] an overriding sense of hospitality”. In fact, the whole place, says the critic, is “brilliant”.