A “generous, hospitable, well-run, fairly-priced” new opening just outside the city: the latest venture of an award-winning, local pub chain (The Moleface Pub Company). “It’s the kind of place that those with landlord aspirations dream of running in their twilight years” apparently, featuring “a series of cosy, linked dining-rooms decked out with bare, wooden tables and chairs” and a “pub-of-my-dreams” menu where “everything begs to be ordered”. On the downside, “food-styling is rife” but actual results vary (“fun”, “gritty”, “over-done”, “strangely watery”, “blissfully crisp”). Still the place “gets a lot of things right” and the problems diagnosed should be “easily fixed”.
Terry Durack (20th October 2008)
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