For fans, this “professional” city-centre spot – entered through a “lovely garden for pre-prandials” – is “still the best restaurant in Nottingham”, with “slick” service and “outstanding” cuisine; for a minority, though, it’s “gone off the boil” and is “always expensive” for food that “sounds more exciting than it tastes”.
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The intention of this Nottingham restaurant, we are told, “is to present highly evolved, ultra-modern food”, but what has actually been achieved, with all the foams and jellies, turns out to be a “perilously dated” style. The critic “can admire the effort” that has gone into each over-complicated dish, but finds the results less focused and accomplished than at Restuarant Sat Bains, not so far away. (Sat Bains, however, is quite a lot more expensive, which qualification is not stated.)
Jay Rayner (5th October 2009)
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