A bistro near the waterfront, where the “imaginative” and “good-value” cooking includes some “superb fish dishes” (“we were so impressed we went on two consecutive nights!”); during the day, lunches and cream teas are served in the garden.
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Good heavens! The Torygraph’s man’s comes over all Guardianesque, beginning his review by noting the “shaming poverty” of certain parts of Cornwall that is one of the “great untold scandals”. Is guilt becoming the restaurant critic’s burden? This one certainly felt “faintly guilty swanning in to a restaurant [full] of chirruping Boden Berties as a reasonably prosperous critic”. Fortunately, it was worth it, as the place is “a delight”.
Jasper Gerard (28th July 2008)
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