Good heavens! The Torygraph’s man’s comes over all Guardianesque, beginning his review by noting the “shaming poverty” of certain parts of Cornwall that is one of the “great untold scandals”. Is guilt becoming the restaurant critic’s burden? This one certainly felt “faintly guilty swanning in to a restaurant [full] of chirruping Boden Berties as a reasonably prosperous critic”. Fortunately, it was worth it, as the place is “a delight”.