Oh dear, this is one of those who-oh-why reviews. The critic’ visits a Manchester restaurant where, on his own account, he “had no business” to be of a drab Monday luchtime. Yes, the experience turns out to be as depressing as you might expect – quite why-oh-why it was ever thought that such a visit might provide material suitable for a national newspaper review never becomes clear.
Jay Rayner (5th July 2010)
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