Paul Heathcote’s “beautiful and understated” city-centre Spanish operation continues to under-achieve; some of its tapas dishes are of “top quality”, but even fans can find them “massively overpriced”.
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The critic (whose media commitments take him to Manchester from time to time) wonders why the NW’s capital can’t sustain a decent restaurant. Culinary inconsistency is the city’s sin, he believes, and leading local chef Paul Heathcote’s latest offering – Spanish, curiously – does nothing to disabuse him of the notion.
Jay Rayner (19th February 2008)
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