“Inventive and tasty” small plates – with some “zingy” Pacific Rim “fusion-combinations” – have made Peter Gordon’s café-style newcomer a useful addition to Covent Garden; it’s “pricey”, though, service can be “disjointed”, and the hard-surfaced interior can be “deafening”.
Keep your own review of Kopapa using our diary service.
Peter Gordon is a hero of mine. His fusion food, which London first tasted at The Sugar Club in Portobello Road, then later in Warwick Street (premises soon to be the Ottolenghi spin-off NOPI) and more recently at The Providores and Tapa Room, broke new ground and liberated other chefs to go walkabout with ingredients — invariably much less felicitously.
Tracey MacLeod (11th January 2011)
Looking at the annual best restaurant round-ups, there's a striking amount of crossover, with the same restaurants serving versions of the same kind of food, appearing on lists produced by everyone from heavy-hitting critics to obscure bloggers. Clearly the food scene is subject to fashion, and we supposedly independent commentators are as easily seduced by new trends as fashion editors looking for the new black.
Fay Maschler (11th January 2011)
Tracey MacLeod (11th January 2011)
Follow hardensbites
Become a Harden's fan
