“Terrific steaks” (“mind you, you pay for ’em”), “crazy-good triple-cooked chips” and “the best cocktails” – three potent ingredients that are carving a formidable and growing reputation for these Spitalfields, Covent Garden and (from late-2011) City steakhouses.
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For some years, there has been a gap in the UK restaurant market, one that can be summed up in a single word: steakhouse. After all, everyone in the trade tells you that men are obsessed with steak; carnivorism is fashionable; our meat, especially our beef, is some of the best in the world; cooking it is one of our historic strong points; cocktails are all the rage, and steakhouses in their US form are famous for their cocktails; and we used to have nationwide chains of steakhouses, so it's hardly a new or unthinkable idea.
Tracey MacLeod (29th November 2010)
4/5 stars
s if it wasn't already hard enough to keep up, in today's Fifty-Things-To-Do-Before culture, a new pressure has emerged. Now you don't just need to own this season's must-have bag – you must also have tried the latest must-eat restaurant dish.
John Lanchester (13th December 2010)
Tracey MacLeod (29th November 2010)
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