“No-nonsense, robust British dishes” – from “good-quality ingredients”, including “good offal and game” – have won a huge fan club for Tom Pemberton’s Bayswater bistro; best place to sit: the “booths-à-deux”, at the front.
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Michael Winner sometimes notes how, to many in the ‘hospitality’ industry, a smile is as “a silver cross to a vampire”. So it was on our visit to this much-awaited newcomer. To be fair, it ...
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Press Reviews (6)
Matthew Norman (7th January 2008)
8/10 points
The critic dines with Michael Winner, who – ten years after first acquaintance – he finds “much diminished in size, but not at all in volume and hilarity”. Indeed, it is a discussion of the Mr Winner’s reviewing techniques (and so on) which takes up much of the review of this Bayswater newcomer: only from the mark awarded do we really gather that Mr Norman actually quite liked it.
AA Gill (13th November 2007)
3/5 stars
Is the rating awarded to this Bayswater newcomer simply a mistake? – even if the staff were “charming” and “well-meaning”, it is pretty much impossible to square it with the critic’s relentless negativity about the food.
Tracey MacLeod (8th November 2007)
Food 3/5 stars; Ambience 3/5 stars; Service 5/5 stars
Both Independent critics visited the same establishment this week. Ms MacLeod found the cooking “confident” and “uncompromising”. Dishes can be “huge” (“so not food for ladies who lunch”), but overall this is a “convivial neighbourhood restaurant”.
Terry Durack (8th November 2007)
15/20 points
Back from Down Under, Mr Durack goes to this Bayswater newcomer. His first visit was a “real let-down”, but he went back for a second visit, which found the fare “simple, seasonal, unadorned and unadulterated”.
Uninfluenced by the fact that he was at school with the chef, Giles finds this Bayswater restaurant simply “brilliant”. Some of the British fare may seem a touch “unstructured”, but it is “terrifically tasty”.
Fay Maschler (1st November 2007)
3/5 stars
The critic finds “delightful” service a plus at this much-awaited school-of-St-John newcomer, in Baywater. On the food front, though, her views are mixed – some main courses evoking a “workhouse”, rather the the “schoolhouse” the place decoratively resembles.