“Marcelle has delegated more, but you can still expect a lengthy wait”, at her “eccentric” café, behind Olympia; at least your meal – “wonderful, home-cooked Lebanese dishes”, at very “restrained” prices – will be “worth waiting for”.
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Trying to find a Lebanese restaurant to rival his favourite, Al Waha, the critic is directed to this café in Olympia. He finds a hectic place, with “erratic” service, and his meal “takes for ever”. It is worth it though; the food is “[j]ust brilliant”, and “prepared to order with great expertise, experience and love” by Marcelle herself. (It’s never entirely clear why critics find it so difficult to locate new places. If Giles consulted his copy of the new Harden’s for example, he’d find Chez Marcelle duly listed at the top of the recommendations for Lebanese cuisine.)
Giles Coren (21st September 2009)
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