A “classic that keeps re-inventing itself”; London’s oldest Indian – “terrifically-located”, near Piccadilly Circus – is an all-round “winner”, thanks to its “refined”, “21st century” decor and its “contemporary cuisine”; ratings dipped a bit this year, though – “have they become too relaxed?”
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Established in 1926, it makes much of this history. Continuity, however, has sometimes been more apparent than real: immediately after WWII, the menu had become almost entirely French. The past two ...
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Press Reviews (1)
Zoe Williams (21st September 2009)
5/10
An up-and-down meal is reported at this long-established “gourmet Indian” in Mayfair. Some dishes please with “fresh, lively and evocative” flavours, but others are not tasty enough to warrant the price tag. Ultimately, the critic seems to be paying for the prime location (on Regent Street) and her verdict is that “this establishment is nothing like as superior as it thinks it is”.
Zoe Williams (21st September 2009)
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