Giles Coren (28th January 2012)
Food 8, Service 8, SRA 6, Total 7.33
This “brand-new massive great incredibly expensive Chinese” is the antithesis of pop-up restaurants (which says Giles, agreeing with the Ecomomist of 6/01/12, are on their way out). The overall experience here is “terrific stuff… although not very recessionista”, with a “very original and thrilling” menu producing results that are “mostly immaculate” (top marks going to lion’s head of pork “throbbing with umami” and “unsually wonderful desserts”). Interior design is “very oriental mega-city” – “so big… and so elegant and spare that it is hard to avoid being a bit bleak”.