Fans who vaunt the “masterful” cuisine and “classy” decor of Gary R’s fine-dining room, by Marble Arch, feel it is “unfairly overlooked”; critics, though, baulk at its “hotel-like” style, and think prices “sky-high”.
STOP PRESS: No longer Rhodes branded - now with Paul Welburn at the stoves.
Keep your own review of Rhodes W1 Restaurant, Cumberland Hotel using our diary service.
“Good. But good enough?” That’s the questions asked – but not really answered – by Giles Coren’s stand-in, reviewing the fancier of the two Gary Rhodes establishments at a Marble Arch hotel.
John Walsh (9th July 2007)
Food 4/5 stars; Ambience 3/5 stars; Service 5/5 stars
The Indie’s man has to penetrate a “huge” front door – “like the portal to an upmarket torture chamber” – to experience Gary Rhodes’s already much-reviewed new restaurant. Inside, the décor is apparently a “paradox of restrained opulence”. Presumably, this meant ‘parody’ – always willing to educate ourselves, we looked in vain for any philosophical musings on the nature of the supposed paradox. But at least, for once, we’re spared the tidbit that this is Rhodes’s effort to regain a Michelin star.
Terry Durack (25th June 2007)
The critic kicks off by noting the sheer effort that had gone in to half a grape, which which he began his meal at Gary Rhodes’s “ambitious” and “quietly lavish” new Bayswater restaurant… “and that’s just one of the appetisers.” He could end the review at that point, he says, “because this one dish says it all. It says high craft and due diligence; it says richness and lightness; and it says eat me.”
Marina O’Loughlin (12th June 2007)
“Boy, does it mount up” – the bill, that is – at Gary Rhodes new fine dining operation. Once you’ve been “anaesthetised by some intense, tenebrous luxury”, however, the whole experience is “rather jolly”, despite a setting which combines “Gothic lugubriousness and nouveau riche glitz”.
Fay Maschler (4th June 2007)
This is “Rhodes's most recherché endeavour yet”, concludes Mrs M, with “the oxtail stews and Jaffa Cake puddings” for which he is famous discarded in preference for “French classicism”. The small dining room room may be a “vulgar” place, “which resembles a fetishist boudoir”, but “anyone interested in finesse in cooking” should give it a whirl.
Mark Palmer (4th June 2007)
Reviewing Gary Rhodes’s new operation, the Telegraph’s man comes to broadly the same conclusions as Mrs M (below) on both the cuisine – “Rhodes does French and all the Michelin set pieces are on display” – and the “look.” He’s not so sure about designer Kelly Hoppen’s “first restaurant venture” either.