“A labour of love, with flashes of genius”; David Moore’s long-running Fitzrovia temple of haute cuisine “has shown no dip in standards” since Marcus Eaves replaced Shane Osborn, and it continues to serve “exquisite” dishes with “unstuffy professionalism”; the narrow room, though, can seem a bit “quiet and subdued”.
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A major fire last year at last provided the opportunity for a total revamp. The new monochromatic styling is comfortable and contemporary, if perhaps a bit short on character. The best tables are at...
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