“The luxury of space between tables” adds to the “light and airy” charms – especially for business – of this first-floor room, overlooking a churchyard; service is “exemplary” (a rarity for the D&D group), and the Gallic cuisine is “delightful” too – if “less imaginative” than in previous years.
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Ms O’M muses on Michelin and the “typically random” job it recently did in Tokyo. She suspects that, in the UK, it’s easier to get a gong in the sticks than it is in town, a fact she tries not to allow to interfere with her judgement of the new régime at this top-end D&D (fka Conran) establishment; for it was “at The Hare Restaurant in Berkshire that [new Orrery chef] Tristan Mason's single Michelin star landed”. Mason, she concludes, “has talent but much of what we ate was odd, verging on the misguided”.
Marina O’Loughlin (17th January 2008)
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