|Last Orders||10.45 pm, Sun 10.30 pm|
"You've got like steak to eat here and you've got to like the way they cook it! We do, so it's OK now and again. The service is a bit regimented and brusque. May I have mine medium/rare? No it's either medium or rare! But the steaks are good even with their secret sauce. And a rather simple but tasty green salad"
"Straightforward French fare. Fantastic frites and ice cream profiteroles. Does what it says on the tin."
"Simplicity itself. Perfect for a late dinner. The salad starter is delicious and a great compliment to a well executed steak. Chips a little too crispy for my palate, but all delivered in a bustling ambiance with swift and efficient service."
Plain and simple steak 'n' chips - arguably France's top contribution to world gastronomy - is done very well indeed at this Marylebone newcomer. Don't go expecting anything else, though- so far as main courses go, that's all there is. There aren't any starters, either, unless you include a small lettuce and walnut salad (compris). You can't even order your steak any way you like. It comes one of four ways: bleu, rare, medium or well done. (If you like yours medium-rare, you'll probably find medium fits the bill.)
With meat from Donald Russell (butcher By Appointment) and a covering of the house's secret 'special' sauce there is, however, absolutely no cause for complaint. You might initially think the portion rather small, but - don't worry - 'seconds' are being held back. The frites are excellent too, and come in unlimited quantities.
Desserts seem, relatively-speaking, a riot of choice. They were quite good on our visit - presumably, they'll be even better when, as intended, they can be sourced from Ladurée, whose first London branch opens (at Harrods) later this year.
Overall, the aim has been to create a complete facsimile of the original (near the porte Maillot), and Parisian practices are continued here. On the upside, wine comes by the demi-litre - the perfect lunchtime measure (for two that is). On the downside, service is variable, and you can't book - the word is already out, so get there early!
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