|Last Orders||10.45 pm, Sun 10.30 pm|
"Simplicity itself. Perfect for a late dinner. The salad starter is delicious and a great compliment to a well executed steak. Chips a little too crispy for my palate, but all delivered in a bustling ambiance with swift and efficient service."
"Atmosphere was good but slightly too loud but was expected. Service was good. Food was excellent as always."
Plain and simple steak 'n' chips - arguably France's top contribution to world gastronomy - is done very well indeed at this Marylebone newcomer. Don't go expecting anything else, though- so far as main courses go, that's all there is. There aren't any starters, either, unless you include a small lettuce and walnut salad (compris). You can't even order your steak any way you like. It comes one of four ways: bleu, rare, medium or well done. (If you like yours medium-rare, you'll probably find medium fits the bill.)
With meat from Donald Russell (butcher By Appointment) and a covering of the house's secret 'special' sauce there is, however, absolutely no cause for complaint. You might initially think the portion rather small, but - don't worry - 'seconds' are being held back. The frites are excellent too, and come in unlimited quantities.
Desserts seem, relatively-speaking, a riot of choice. They were quite good on our visit - presumably, they'll be even better when, as intended, they can be sourced from Ladurée, whose first London branch opens (at Harrods) later this year.
Overall, the aim has been to create a complete facsimile of the original (near the porte Maillot), and Parisian practices are continued here. On the upside, wine comes by the demi-litre - the perfect lunchtime measure (for two that is). On the downside, service is variable, and you can't book - the word is already out, so get there early!
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