“Eat down the road first!” – it’s for the champagne bar (with its “amazing list at reasonable prices”) that this rambling and historic Soho “time warp” is worth seeking out; as a place to eat, it “needs serious work”.
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We should be grateful for the survival of Kettners. Even after its latest relaunch, its Soho premises offer what’s quite possibly the most authentic evocation of what a restaurant of Victorian ti...
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Press Reviews (3)
Marina O'Loughlin (11th February 2009)
2/5 stars
“[B]leached, buffed and Farrow-And-Balled to within an inch of its life”, the “girlie” décor of this relaunched Soho institution pleases the critic, but the food leaves her cold. She understands the negative reviews the place has sometimes received elsewhere. “Sure it's a looker (hence the two stars) but whatever happened to the shabby-glitzy, rackety joint where you could stuff your face with reliable stodge, pose over a glass of fizz or two and still get out with enough for your bus fare home?”
Charmaine Mok (17th December 2008)
4/6 stars
This West End stand-by has emerged from refurbishment “as the properly seductive Soho brasserie it always had been”, says the critic, the designer having “successfully brought Parisian glamour to the Big Smoke… The effect is something of a ‘Sex and the City’-style townhouse cocktail party, complete with plush carpeting”. The food has its ups and downs, but – overall – the review is something of a hymn of praise.
Matthew Norman (15th December 2008)
0.5/10
You don’t have to go too far before the critic tells us where he’s going with his review of this Soho old-timer, recently revived by Gondola Holding – “every aspect of lunch was a cataclysm”.