Is this “mould-breaking” Chinatown three-year-old beginning to “slack”? – fans still say its “original” modern Asian cooking is “in a different league” from its competitors, enabling it to transcend its “drab”, IKEA-esque decor; sceptics say it’s on the verge of becoming “bog-standard”.
Keep your own review of Haozhan using our diary service.
It’s not often that a small new Chinese restaurant makes waves immediately on opening, but this one’s been making an early claim on critical attention, and quite rightly too, if our experience ...
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Press Reviews (7)
Giles Coren (5th February 2008)
5/10
The critic finds some good old-fashioned Chinatown service at what’s often touted as the “best new rezzy in Chinatown”. The food is pretty good, but other aspects of the experience jar.
Marina O'Loughlin (5th December 2007)
2/5 stars
The critic is not impressed by this much-lauded oriental newcomer. At the end of her review, she rather grudgingly concludes that she “ would rather eat Haozhan's food than most of its neighbours”, but then “that's a bit like saying I'd rather have rickets than leprosy”. Chinatown, eat your heart out.
Matthew Norman (6th November 2007)
8/10 points
Unlike many other institutions in Chinatown, one can eat in an environment of “charm and warmth” at this new oriental, says the critic. He finds the odd “virtually tasteless” dish, but some are “outstanding”.
Jay Rayner (17th October 2007)
This Chinatown newcomer is a “pleasant restaurant staffed by nice waiters, with an interesting menu of well-prepared dishes”, says the critic. Sometimes, though, the “gods of the deep-fat fryer” can bestow some “underpowered” fare.
Mark Palmer (17th October 2007)
7/10 points
The style may be “Conranesque”, but this Chinatown newcomer is found to offer some “fabulous” dishes at “absolute bargain” prices.
Terry Durack (11th September 2007)
15/20 points
Despite the fact that Chinatown is “the last place you go for dining with integrity and style”, the critic found “impressive” food at Jimmy Kong's latest restaurant.
Fay Maschler (4th September 2007)
3/5 stars
Ms. Maschler finds this Chinatown newcomer “tasty, in an elemental way”. Malaysian, she concludes, is “the fashionable cuisine of 2007”.