Goodman

Press Reviews (7)

• Andy Lynes (23rd April 2009)
  4/5 stars
  
  Metro’s stand-in reviewer gives us the most positive critique yet of this Mayfair steakhouse. Only at the dessert stage do “cracks” appear in what’s otherwise a consistent thumbs-up.
• Jay Rayner (9th March 2009)
  
  The critic, it turns out, has met the man from Moscow who is the money behind this new Mayfair steakhouse. “This is a proper steakhouse”, he concludes, serving properly aged pieces of beef that have been sent through a hot grill and then allowed to rest”, he says, “[b]ut they are not quite fabulous steaks… [not quite having] that big, mineral-rich flavour the best steaks deliver”.
• Will Fulford-Jones (25th February 2009)
  3/6 stars
  
  This Mayfair joint is the “first British incarnation of this American-style [steakhouse] chain”, says the critic. He finds its standards rather up-and-down, leading to the overall conclusion that “to thrive, we suspect Goodman may need to raise its game or lower its prices”.
• AA Gill (26th January 2009)
  3/5 stars
  
  After much prelude, the critic tells us that “a new steakhouse called Goodman has opened in a quiet little street of restaurants behind Hanover Square”. It “looks like a Russian take on an American chain restaurant”, but “[i]f what you crave is a good steak at a realistic price, then this is your place”. “All the side bits and pieces, the mustards and sauces, salads and chips, are adequate, but they’re not the point.”
• Terry Durack (12th January 2009)
  
  “Nothing here is horrible or great, nothing rare or well-done. It's just medium.” The critic is just “not interested” by this new Mayfair steakhouse.
• David Sexton (7th January 2009)
  3/5 stars
  
  The critic finds “an absolute concentration on the steaks” at this new Mayfair steakhouse. “Everything else … matters less than the steak but is well up to the mark”. But even so, this “guy haven’, on – NB – a Monday night, was notable for the fact that it had “no guys”.
• Jan Moir (26th November 2008)
  
  The review may start off pretty unpromisingly – “[d]ark brown restaurants are unappetising in the same way that dark brown stews are unappetising” – but the critic comes to the conclusion that this new Russian-owned Mayfair steakhouse “will flourish”. “In some respects, it’s rather like a comfortably appointed, grown up burger bar, but there is nothing wrong with that [and m]ost importantly, there are scant few places in the West End where you can get a really decent steak, well sourced and cooked by a technically proficient kitchen”. The restaurant is “excellently situated for Christmas West End shopping” too (within a tantrum throw of Hamleys), and the family-friendly pricing is a lure”, and she concluded, “[y]ou won’t get browned off here”.