“A meat lover’s paradise!” – these “NY-style power grill-houses” (“very male-dominated” and “full of suits”) serve up not only “divine” steaks (“the best in London”), but also “simply superb burgers”, “wonderful truffle chips”, and “evilly good lobster mac ’n’ cheese”.
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Rightly or wrongly, when you hear that somewhere’s owned by the Russians, you tend to assume that there‘s going to be something sinister about it. Big disappointment. This particular Mayfair st...
Press Reviews (7)
Andy Lynes (23rd April 2009)
Metro’s stand-in reviewer gives us the most positive critique yet of this Mayfair steakhouse. Only at the dessert stage do “cracks” appear in what’s otherwise a consistent thumbs-up.
Jay Rayner (9th March 2009)
The critic, it turns out, has met the man from Moscow who is the money behind this new Mayfair steakhouse. “This is a proper steakhouse”, he concludes, serving properly aged pieces of beef that have been sent through a hot grill and then allowed to rest”, he says, “[b]ut they are not quite fabulous steaks… [not quite having] that big, mineral-rich flavour the best steaks deliver”.
Will Fulford-Jones (25th February 2009)
This Mayfair joint is the “first British incarnation of this American-style [steakhouse] chain”, says the critic. He finds its standards rather up-and-down, leading to the overall conclusion that “to thrive, we suspect Goodman may need to raise its game or lower its prices”.
AA Gill (26th January 2009)
After much prelude, the critic tells us that “a new steakhouse called Goodman has opened in a quiet little street of restaurants behind Hanover Square”. It “looks like a Russian take on an American chain restaurant”, but “[i]f what you crave is a good steak at a realistic price, then this is your place”. “All the side bits and pieces, the mustards and sauces, salads and chips, are adequate, but they’re not the point.”
Terry Durack (12th January 2009)
“Nothing here is horrible or great, nothing rare or well-done. It's just medium.” The critic is just “not interested” by this new Mayfair steakhouse.
David Sexton (7th January 2009)
The critic finds “an absolute concentration on the steaks” at this new Mayfair steakhouse. “Everything else … matters less than the steak but is well up to the mark”. But even so, this “guy haven’, on – NB – a Monday night, was notable for the fact that it had “no guys”.
Jan Moir (26th November 2008)
The review may start off pretty unpromisingly – “[d]ark brown restaurants are unappetising in the same way that dark brown stews are unappetising” – but the critic comes to the conclusion that this new Russian-owned Mayfair steakhouse “will flourish”. “In some respects, it’s rather like a comfortably appointed, grown up burger bar, but there is nothing wrong with that [and m]ost importantly, there are scant few places in the West End where you can get a really decent steak, well sourced and cooked by a technically proficient kitchen”. The restaurant is “excellently situated for Christmas West End shopping” too (within a tantrum throw of Hamleys), and the family-friendly pricing is a lure”, and she concluded, “[y]ou won’t get browned off here”.