It still has its fans – especially as a venue for a “sustaining” winter lunch – but this “once-great” Soho townhouse-institution is “living on its former reputation”; “I hope Hungarians eat better than this!”
Keep your own review of Gay Hussar using our diary service.
This Soho institution has certainly enjoyed an interesting history - not only was it London's first Hungarian restaurant, it also attracted an impressive literary patrongage before becoming the “unofficial headquarters of Labour's intellectual left.” Upon entering the restaurant, however, the critic can't help but feel “its best years are behind it”. After two disappointing courses - “[i]nstead of the delicately fried liver I'm expecting, I receive a pile of dark brown slop” - he finds the dessert descriptions too unappetising to face, and concludes that prices are “a little steep for Eastern European comfort food”. “No doubt The Gay Hussar will soldier on” - but it's glory days certainly seem to be behind it.
Toby Young (14th March 2010)
Follow hardensbites
Become a Harden's fan
