Dolada

Press Reviews (4)

• AA Gill (17th August 2009)
  
  As Mr Gill sagely notes, this Mayfair basement has essentially – through three recent incarnations – “always been the same Italian restaurant”, and an “accomplished” one too. Under the latest ownership, the cooking is typically Venetian: “expensive” ingredients which are “even more expensively sold” (we understand that), treated with a “tentative flamboyance” (a bit of an oxymoron, perhaps?) and with “more charm than love” – we’ve struggled to work out how, in the context, this last observation can mean anything at all!
• Giles Coren (13th July 2009)
  5/10
  
  The critic finds this Mayfair Italian an “elegant, genial” space which, on his Friday-night visit, is “a little dishearteningly underfilled”. Perhaps this has something to do with the “[s]taggering prices”. Four “fine” starters come to £82, and four “drab” mains cost £94. “The first sniff... of value” comes with the “lovely” pudding, but only because it is intended for two and is shared between four.
• Marina O'Loughlin (6th May 2009)
  3/5 stars
  
  The critic unwisely accepted a “friendly offer” of a glass of grappa at the end of her meal at this “discreet” but “super-posh” Mayfair Italian, thus adding an astonishing £30 to the bill. This single fact tells you almost everything about the establishment – “[i]f a dewy-eyed Jilly Cooper heroine was being mashed by a swarthy no-good Lothario, this is just the sort of place he’d take her”.
• Fay Maschler (4th February 2009)
  4/5 stars
  
  Ms M visits a new(ish) Mayfair Italian – a reincarnation of the restaurant formerly called Mosaico – and finds the cooking “definitely worth a try”. Whether her description really paints what you might call a four -star picture, however, we’re not so sure.