It looks like “another tapas-y, small plates joint in Soho”, but Marina finds herself “coming back... time and again” to this haven of “informality and bustle”. It matters not that “you can frequently be eating with someone’s elbow in your back” (“Have you ever eaten in a busy tapas bar in Spain?’”). It’s just “bloody excellent”, from the “fragrant sherry”, to the “smartly chosen” wines, to food that’s “sophisticated, creative, not hidebound by any notions of authenticity – and totally works”.