“The epitome of romance”; this “squished” and “idiosyncratic” candlelit Soho townhouse is a “perennial favourite” for legions of Londoners; its short menu of “straightforward” but “well-thought-out” dishes is twinned with an “epic” wine list – “one of the most interesting ‘bargain’ selections in England”.
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“There are lots of reasons why a person might not like Andrew Edmunds”, says the critic. Its Soho premises are nothing to look at, and the service “although intelligent and friendly, can be pretty direct”. “You might even find the food lacking in ambition if you’re the kind of chump who demands a lot of fuss and complication on your plate every time you eat out, but “[p]lenty of [literary types] find Andrew Edmunds about the most sympathetic venue in all London”. “The ambience is Hogarthian, not just Dickensian”, and the food is “pretty good, though not the main point”. And oenophiles can find really top value.
David Sexton (9th April 2009)
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