“Gorgeously scruffy, yet atmospheric”, this delightfully “quirky” candlelit Soho favourite is as perfect as ever for “an intimate tête-à-tête” – sit upstairs if you can; the “simple” food is reasonably “inventive”, but it’s the “superb” wines that offer “outstanding value”.
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“There are lots of reasons why a person might not like Andrew Edmunds”, says the critic. Its Soho premises are nothing to look at, and the service “although intelligent and friendly, can be pretty direct”. “You might even find the food lacking in ambition if you’re the kind of chump who demands a lot of fuss and complication on your plate every time you eat out, but “[p]lenty of [literary types] find Andrew Edmunds about the most sympathetic venue in all London”. “The ambience is Hogarthian, not just Dickensian”, and the food is “pretty good, though not the main point”. And oenophiles can find really top value.
David Sexton (9th April 2009)
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