“A classy restaurant with a pub attached”, this Sand’s End “hotspot” – a sibling to the Harwood Arms – may be “quite expensive”, but it offers some “excellent” cooking (including “great bar nibbles”).
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Gosh how’s this for quick reactions? “When a newish gastropub is hailed by a Sunday broadsheet as a paradigm for the new breed of unashamedly posh conservatism, our curiosity is piqued”, says the critic. (The said broadsheet was the Times, and the review only appeared three days ago.)
AA Gill (12th August 2008)
3/5 stars
Perhaps it’s the joys of the holiday season. There seem to be a lot of very upbeat reviews this weekend. Not that this particular critic gets any further than Sands End: “a very weird little corner of west London; a muddle of artisans' semidetached cottages, of meagre and pursed aspect, behind Wandsworth Bridge Road”.
Fay Maschler (17th July 2008)
3/5 stars
Ms Maschler seems to enjoy her meal at this new gastropub in Fulham, where the cuisine reflects chef Liam Kirwan's “Irish soul”, and prices are “fair”. With its “countrified air” and some “excellent” cooking, she deems it an ultimately “wise choice of hang-out”.
Marina O’Loughlin (14th August 2008)
AA Gill (12th August 2008)
Fay Maschler (17th July 2008)
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