The little feedback inspired by this ambitious Gallic two-year-old, by Stamford Bridge, suggests it’s a soulless and overpriced sort of place – we presume it survives solely by virtue of its backer, MPW’s ‘celebrity’ status… on which he has primarily traded for over a decade!
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London’s restaurants have come so far over the past 20 years – and particularly the past 10 – that the mere fact that a place offers good food doesn’t necessarily make it of particular inte...
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Press Reviews (4)
AA Gill (1st April 2008)
Rating 4/5 stars
The critic finally gets round to reviewing MPW’s newish restaurant, which is a short walk from his house. The menu, he notes, “looks like the Ivy‘s”. (A delphic observation: how Marco’s honed-down purely French menu could be said to be in any respect like the Ivy’s, it’s very difficult to see.) Anyway, the food get cracking levels of approval – higher, as we recall, than in any of the ‘opening’ reviews – perhaps because “every one of [the] dishes brought back priapic memories” (sic).
Matthew Norman (5th February 2008)
4.75/10
“A more unapologetic clip joint you will seldom encounter”, says Mr Norman. The setting of MPW’s Chelsea FC-side dining room may be “fine if early 90s Kings Road disco is to your taste”, but the realisation of the menu was largely “bland”. “[B]eing unquestionably the greatest chef Britain has produced”, says the critic, “Marco Pierre White might wish to spend a little more time overseeing the kitchen at his latest venture”.
Marina O’Loughlin (23rd October 2007)
3/5 stars
MPW’s Fulham newcomer, the critic observes, “opened with hardly a ripple”. It’s “designed in a luxe, 1980s-nightclub style” – what it lacks in insouciance it makes up for in conspicuous consumption. The menu is “defiantly odd – “retro and luxurious like [the] surroundings”. The chef is Matthew Brown (“the unpleasantly bullying chap from Hell's Kitchen”), who “has clearly been drilled by his master to knock out the dishes”, but “there's a feeling of rote about them rather than sensuality or passion”.
Mark Palmer (19th October 2007)
7/10 points
The cuisine at Marco Pierre White's latest establishment in Stamford Bridge is nothing short of “rich” and “outstanding”, says the critic, and dishes are “beautifully conceived”.
AA Gill (1st April 2008)
Matthew Norman (5th February 2008)
Marina O’Loughlin (23rd October 2007)
Mark Palmer (19th October 2007)
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