The food “always keeps you coming back”, say fans of this ever-“packed” Knightsbridge Italian – who cares if it’s “a bit expensive”?; given the “noisy” and “cramped” interior, and staff who “rush you through”, however, others are less forgiving.
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The critic visits this grand South Kensington Indian, whose recent revamp seems to have as its blueprint “the Heathrow branch of the Radisson Edwardian”. “From the moment we arrive and the doorman declines to open the door, to the moment the bill arrives, it's little short of surreal… Looks like the Taj Group has squandered squillions turning a howling anachronism into, well, a wildly expensive, howling anachronism.”
Fay Maschler (18th March 2009)
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