“A perfect local”; “straightforward French classics” are “done well and without pretensions”, at this “reliably enjoyable” and “reasonably-priced” family-run spot, near Wandsworth Common.
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The other half of the critic’s south London run off is a Balham restaurant that’s “as French as they come, packed with real, live French people, and our waiter insisted on speaking French to us as much as possible… despite our best efforts not to.” The food turns out to be a “homier, simpler take on French food than Le Provence”, but he still has a “most merveilleux night out”.