“MPW should stick to making stock-cube adverts”, says one of the many critics of the celebrity-chef’s “drab” and “disappointing” fish restaurant, by St James’s Palace – “simply don’t bother!”
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You’d have thought that Marco would have put a bit of effort into Luciano, the former premises on this St James’s site, not least as they were named after his son. If he did, however, the resul...
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Press Reviews (3)
Marina O'Loughlin (4th February 2010)
3/5 stars
Well we’ve heard it all now. David Sexton gave MPW’s new St James’s Fish Parlour 1/5 stars (which we think was right). Jasper Gerard (in our view, astonishingly) gave it 4/5, and now we have the usually reliable Ms O’Lochlin storming in with 3/5. Even though she had sharpened her claws, knowing this was an MPW restaurant, she feels obliged to pronounce it “not bad at all”. The market, however, is perhaps the safest guide: “[a]part from a handful of vaguely bonkers-looking tourists of extreme age and vast wallet, the place is sparsely populated”.
David Sexton (14th January 2010)
1/5 stars
The critic visits an “old warhorse” of a fish restaurant concept that’s “being wheeled out again” by Marco Pierre White. He finds that the “gloomy premises” (formerly Luciano, in St James’s) claim to have undergone a “stunning makeover”, but that this is “not apparent”. And “[t]he menu is British, short, understated and eye-wateringly expensive”, especially for an establishment where the food is “[a]ll a bit upmarket Little Chef”.
Jasper Gerard (4th January 2010)
4/5 stars
Bah, humbug! If a critic starts off a review by telling you how he’s mates with the celebrity chef concerned – such as “I don’t always understand [Marco Pierre White], but I always like him” – you may as well stop reading at that point.
Marina O'Loughlin (4th February 2010)
David Sexton (14th January 2010)
Jasper Gerard (4th January 2010)
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