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The Chelsea Brasserie, Sloane Square Hotel

French Restaurant in London
The Chelsea Brasserie, Sloane Square Hotel, 7-12 Sloane Sq, London, SW1W 8EG
020 7881 5999    Email    Website   
This restaurant is now closed
This restaurant is now closed
Harden's Survey Result
Overall Value
out of 5
Food 
Service 
Ambience 
2014 Review: “Nothing to complain about, but nothing to rave about either” – this hotel brasserie at the centre of the Sloane world makes a very “convenient” rendezvous before the Royal Court/Cadogan Hall, for shoppers or for business.
Features
Business Facilities Yes1
Outside Tables Yes1
Private Rooms Yes10
Last Orders 10.30 pm
The Editors Review

Funny place Sloane Square. Shoppers and the local residents sashay by, resplendent in the choicest fabrics and beautiful shoes and immaculate hair-dos. And that's just the men. It all makes for good people-watching, which helps explain the perennial success of the Square's lacklustre Oriel brasserie.


Seeing as it calls itself a brasserie, this newcomer opposite would, at first sight, appear, to provide some real local competition. But whereas Oriel is your classic cod-French joint, the newcomer is svelte and contemporary. And - with its sophisticated décor, with much use of wood, patches of bare brick walls with inlaid strips of mirrors, and trendy green dangly lamps - it lacks the 'drop-in' feel of a classic brasserie.


On the food front, the brasserie term seems similarly misleading. Chef David Karlsson Möller admittedly used to be one of the head honchos at a fantastic nearby 'brasserie' - Knightsbridge's Racine. But the dishes on the menu here seem a notch more complex.


A test meal kicked off with moreish bread and accompanied - just as it is at Racine - with fine French (Echiré) butter. The starter was slivers of melted Raclette, under a well-dressed mix of potato and red onion. Next up was tasty (if slightly chewy) partridge, served spatchcock-style, with chestnuts, (brilliant) Dauphinoise potatoes and chocolate sauce (which was good, if less startling than it might sound). Pudding - poached Victoria plums with almond cream - had that confident simplicity that is too often the preserve of our friends across the Channel.


In fact, all the food had a dash of sure-footed Gallic panache that's still too rare in British kitchens. It is complemented by a drinks list that includes not only a short well-chosen selection of wines, but an exemplary choice of beers, both mainstream and specialist.


Finally - after weeks of searching - somewhere that really does deserve four stars!


See the Review
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