“A stunning legacy of ’90s restaurant design”, this “light” and “airy” – “Manhattan-esque” – St James’s brasserie remains a popular business choice; not everyone’s impressed though – it can still seem a “soulless” and “incredibly noisy” place, where the food is simply “dull”.
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After a month’s refurbishment, this airy St James’s restaurant recently opened with tarted-up décor (in much the same style as before), as well as a new chef and a new menu ‘concept’.
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Press Reviews (1)
Richard Vines (11th February 2010)
3/4 stars
The critic reviews a St James’s restaurant that’s “been around for years… without becoming a destination, except for drinkers in search of a bar in St. James where you can enjoy decent wines without paying indecent prices”. Now, however, he finds it “reborn under a young Finnish chef whose menu and cooking are deserving of attention and even a detour if you’re thinking of other haunts in the area such as Le Caprice”. (Mikko Kataja, 31, we read, “is an unlikely champion of modern British cooking and ingredients. He was born in Sammatti near Helsinki, and has become such a fan of U.K. produce that he cooks with rapeseed oil, rather than olive oil, and his improbable signature dish is a fondue made from three British cheeses”.)
Richard Vines (11th February 2010)
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