“A top cigar terrace”, “an outstanding whisky selection”, “blaring jazz” and “East European girls in kilts” set the scene at this “faux-Scottish” Belgravian – this may all make for good male-bonding opportunities, but the “traditional” fare (highlighting steak) can seem pretty “indifferent”, given the “steep” prices.
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OK, this OE-laird-owned Scottish restaurant in Belgravia is not your classic Guardian reader’s destination, but it’s still a bit of a shock just how much the critic doesn’t like a place he finds as “desultory, complacent, self-reverential and ridiculous a venture as you will find”, and at “woefully anachronistic” prices too. “For all the nightly live jazz, walk-in humidor and vast selection of whiskies, this is an upmarket Angus Steak House for credulous Americans, expenses-laden MPs and that breed of sonorous dullard who refers to “the PC brigade” without irony but isn't quite posh enough for Wiltons.” Gosh, just imagine referring to “the PC brigade” without irony – we can already hear Mrs Harman calling for a new category of thought-crime!
Matthew Norman (2nd March 2009)
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