The critic enjoys her meal at this new Crouch End gastropub. The food shows some “true class” and staff are “friendly, sweet and mostly on the ball”. However, while it ticks almost all the gastropub boxes, there are “no real ales”, which leaves her “feeling a bit bitter”.
David Sexton (30th April 2009)
If you look at “the map of Greater London in any restaurant guide”, you’ll see “how strictly metropolitan good food still remains in this city”, notes the critic. “There’s a thick cluster of recommendations in the centre, naturally, both north and south of the river, all the way from Hammersmith to Docklands. Then there’s a western offshoot into the curry houses of Southall and some provision too for the genteel residents of Twickenham and Richmond. But outside this central zone, there’s absolutely nothing meriting even half-hearted recommendation within the circumference of the M25.” (Broadly true, if not literally so, at least for those lucky enough to have a copy of Harden’s!)