“On the site that was the variable Florians, St James is the sibling of the best restaurant in Bushey, Herts”, the critic informs us. Service at this Crouch End newcomer is “mature”, and decor and serivce “confident” (“if a tad ostentatious”), but “[n]early everyone who’s walked into the lounge has commented on its resemblance to a high-end strip club, apparently”.