Once, with some difficulty, we’d finally located, the subject of this review, its appearance did not disappoint. This is a magnificent Victorian boozer, nicely stripped down (and not then buggered...
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Press Reviews (1)
Anne McElvoy (22nd October 2008)
2/5 stars
The Standard’s editor visits “one of the finest old gin palaces in London” – a haunt she’s “frequented it in all its incarnations” that’s now been “re-re-launched with... [a] less gritty menu”. Other members of her family liked it more as a pub, and she concedes it’s “a difficult space to make work, being very high and thus extremely clattery”. She seems to feel unlucky about her menu choice and “suspect[s] there are some good things lurking”. In her case, though, a partridge suffers “turboblasting… to death” and the meal gives rise to the extremely valid general complaint that “gastropub chefs do seem alarmingly fond of the salt cellar”. Still, service is “obliging” and prices such that “it should be a real credit crunch tip for Islington gentlefolk fallen on hard times”.
Anne McElvoy (22nd October 2008)
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