2010 Review: The “chilled” dining room of a private club (open to non-members), just off Finsbury Square, featuring “awesome” funky décor (plus terrace), and “an interesting wine romp around the New World”; the “simple” food pleases too, but has rather a supporting role.
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We don’t usually review clubs, but this one opens its dining room to non-residents for lunch and dinner, so we thought we ought to check it out.
Even if you know that a club lets in the plebs,...
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Press Reviews (2)
Marina O'Loughlin (22nd October 2008)
3/5 stars
Marina, she tells us, is so over clubs, but she warms to this place that “fulfils all the necessary requirements” of such establishments: “you can’t find the entrance and, once you’re in, you're met with a blast of you’re-not-invitedness”. She likes both the restaurant staff (“no elitism”) and the décor (a “mix of bare brick, late 20th-century furniture and geegaws from the chic to the unabashedly kitsch”). Foodwise there’s an “organically inclined” buffet and a “multicultural mishmash of a menu” that is “all kind of better than you’d expect but not as good as you’d hope”.
Zoe Williams (2nd September 2008)
8.5/10
This review is of a Shoreditch venue which “treads the line between a highly exclusive members-only joint and a regular restaurant by the surprisingly simple expedient of letting non-members into the restaurant”. The critic finds a room that’s “sexy and retro, a bit like dreaming a porn film through the filter of your childhood”. The food turns out to be pretty good too.
Marina O'Loughlin (22nd October 2008)
Zoe Williams (2nd September 2008)
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