“It looks the same, but oh dear it’s lost its way!”; as it goes national, this expanding pâtisserie chain (whose original Soho branch allegedly introduced ’30s-Britain to the croissant) still does “reliable” breakfasts and “yummy” cakes, but in other respects is now “very ordinary”.
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It’s not just the building, though, which is of above-average ambition: this is the first of the group’s outlet to include a fully-fledged brasserie. Not that you’d ever know: it’s hidden-a...
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