“A good formula gone wrong” – fans may like the “simple but effective” cuisine at these “reinvented British caffs”, but more striking is the number of critics, who complain of “woefully inconsistent” cooking, sometimes “laughable” service, and “the lack of any real atmosphere”.
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There’s certainly nothing remotely granny-ish about the décor of this clean-lined corner site. With its neat rows of well-spaced benches – and its more comfortable-looking, but still quite seve...
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