This über-trendy, design-hotel put in another ‘Curate’s Egg’ performance this year; to fans its still an outstanding all-rounder and one of the city’s best venues, but to critics “amateurish” staff and “nothing special” cooking create a “joyless” ambience.
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In “an exceptionally lovely area of Liverpool”, Zoe Williams finds “charming service, lovely high ceilings, exposed brick [and] an informal sense of space” at this much-fêted eatery, which she praises as an advert for “urban regeneration”. One “duff” dish turns out to be “stringy” and “not enormously likeable” while another is “a bit late-1990’s, but not off-putting”. Otherwise there are waves of praise for Paul Askew’s “inventive”, “earthy”, and “marvellous” dishes.
Zoe Williams (20th October 2008)
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