Robert Kisby is a “highly acclaimed chef” locally, and he seems to have found a happy perch at this “out-of-the-way” gastropub which is “as good for a bar snack as it is à la carte”.
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The critic visits the latest venture from (well known, in the NW) chef Robert Kisby, and diagnoses “an overweening self-regard [and] an emetic preening about the place”. “I try to eat outside London as often as possible”, he says, but the truth is that it's the gaucheness of restaurants like Cabbage Hall which mean that, too often, I embark upon those journeys with bitter trepidation”.