2009 Review: An “urban-chic” offshoot of Cafe Gandolfi, mostly praised as a “welcome addition just a few doors up from the original”, with “very good-quality fish dishes”; misfires, however, are not unknown.
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“You can tell a lot about a restaurant by its fish pie”, observes the critic, sagely, and “[i]n the case of Glasgow’s Gandolfi Fish, you can tell almost everything you need to know”. “The Gandolfi Fish version, like the restaurant itself, is so very almost, but not quite.” “Gandolfi Fish, a spinoff of the nearby Café Gandolfi, a Glasgow landmark these past 30 years, has almost everything sorted. The black-tabled, mirrored room is made for chatter. The service is impressively efficient and engaged, given there are just two of them for a bustling room. The menu is mostly sensible without being overwrought, and makes enough of good Scottish seafood without you fearing that something unspeakable involving bagpipes might be about to happen. And most of the food really is fine.”
Jay Rayner (11th May 2009)
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