“One of the best restaurants in the South East and deserving wider recognition!”; thanks to Tim Johnson’s “imaginative” and “beautifully-presented” cooking, this small and “beautifully calm” (“slightly rarified”) high street restaurant inspires consistently enthusiastic reports.
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The Telegraph‘s new man – whose predecessor, Mark Palmer, was unceremoniously shown the door – continues to settle in. He muses a lot on Apicius (the Roman glutton), before moving on to the restaurant, with which he has just two criticisms: the setting is “clinical” and some pastry is rock-hard. Such quibbles apart, however, “even Apicius would be proud to have this restaurant bear his weighty name”.
Japser Gerard (10th March 2008)
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