“Top-notch” innovative cuisine is matched by a “superb cellar” (over 1000 bins) at Simon Radley’s supremely comfortable dining room in the heart of this unusually luxurious city-centre hotel; but even fans can find it “very expensive”.
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Emma Jean Sturgess (22nd September 2008)
5/5 stars
A relaunch review of the grand city-centre hotel long known as the Arkle, where the (now) eponmous chef has held a Michelin star for 18 years. “Reassuringly, nothing much has changed… [b]ut Radley has been awarded the status he deserves [presumably by virute of having his name over the door] for consistently impeccable food, done with one eye on French technique, and the other on the rest of the world.”
Emma Jean Sturgess (22nd September 2008)
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