Harden's survey result
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By the Eastgate Clock, the Duke of Westminster’s gracious property is unusually grand for a small-town hotel, and its “rather old-fashioned” dining room (a windowless space in the heart of the building) has long held a major culinary reputation under Simon Radley. It drew a few critical reviews this year, and even some supporters say the food is “aiming slightly higher than it delivers”. Overall, however, it scores high ratings for cuisine that “provides a kaleidoscope of taste and texture over a series of theatrical courses”, and for its very heavyweight wine list (plus the “best bread board ever encountered”).
Few small provincial cities have grander hotels than this “elegant” property (next to the town’s landmark Eastgate Clock), which is owned by The Duke of Westminster (whose family seat, Eaton Hall, is a short drive out of town). Its “formal” and rather “old-fashioned” dining room feels as “smart” as its windowless position in the bowels of the building will allow, and is a showcase for Simon Radley’s cuisine, which is “the epitome of classic style mixed with modern and creative ideas” and consistently delivers “first class” results. Also vying for attention is the “massive” wine list, which “bamboozles with the sheer choice on offer”.
“Chester is SO lucky to have a genuinely smart hotel”, and its flagship dining room “has the formality you’d expect, but still manages to be friendly and (relatively) relaxed”; Simon Radley fully lives up to the occasion, offering “wonderful classic cooking” that “features luxury ingredients but avoids cliché”.
For a “luxurious experience” full of “old-fashioned graciousness”, this “comfy” (if windowless) dining room – in an unusually grand hotel, next to the city’s iconic Eastgate clock – makes a fine destination; service is “immaculate” and the cuisine “consistently first class” (with a “massive” wine list to go with it).
56-58 Eastgate Street, Chester, CH1 1LT
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Tuesday to Saturday from 6.30pm
Last orders: Mon closed, Tue - Sat 9 pm, Sun closed