A review of a “large, stylish affair” in Brighton, which promotes local suppliers “while wearing its ethical heart on its window”. The critic enjoys a menu somewhat reminiscent of the River Café. Despite concluding that it is an “impressive, thoughtful restaurant”, however, he is rather disappointed to “find fewer local offerings than I was led to expect”. “Loud champion that I am of local sourcing and seasonal produce, I sometimes fear this mantra hides a failure to tackle more intractable food problems....Nowhere is social exclusion greater than around the table. I know it is a pipe dream but I wish we could have affordable restaurants.”
Jasper Gerard (14th March 2010)
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