“Good sustainable fish at good prices” – that’s the mantra that wins very consistent support for this “friendly” seafood bistro in a townhouse in the Lanes.
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This recently-opened restaurant in Brighton feels like “a tribute act to FishWorks” to the critic, in both its menu and “deliberately artless” interior. “It means well” and “service is endearing” but, on his visit, the food is inconsistent and belies “amateurism”.
Tracey MacLeod (13th July 2009)
Food 3/5 stars, Ambience 3/5 stars, Service 3/5 stars
This Brighton fish restaurant, co-owned by X Factor’s Dermot O’Leary, is, we are told, “unashamedly pitched at the mass market, but with a stylish twist.” At first glance, the colour scheme and menu are “spookily familiar”, and appear to be modelled on the Fishworks chain. But the place has a “laid-back charm which takes it out of chain territory”. “The brasserie-style menu” produces “consistently good” food, and the fish – “99 percent [of which] comes from the English Channel” – is “notably fresh”. With the “holiday mood” of the ambience and “crisp and well-informed” service, the critic finds it “a decent mid-market alternative to the [city’s] existing seafood restaurants”.
Matthew Norman (26th October 2009)
Tracey MacLeod (13th July 2009)
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