“Many locals were surprised by the award of a Michelin star”, but this “modern restaurant in an old pub” seems, if anything, to have gone backwards since being blessed by the tyre men; service has had notable ‘downs’ as well as ‘ups’, and the food is “good… but not that good”.
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A review of country dining room where the food is “great” – “evolved without being fetishised, each dish designed around a single ingredient that gets a role commensurate with its billing”.
Jay Rayner (7th June 2010)
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